Wintessing the Tohoku Earthquake on the 11th of March 2011

tohokuLuke Happle, a UKJET Programme participant, works as a Coordinator for International Relations/Prefectural Advisor in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture, and was working at the Prefectural Office when the Great East Japan Earthquake struck on the 11th March.

At 14:46, a massive earthquake of magnitude 9.0 struck the Tohoku region of Japan. The earthquake in turn caused a tsunami of epic proportions that ravaged the Tohoku coast. The current death toll is estimated at more than 13,000 with roughly the same amount still unaccounted for. This was only the beginning. The quake lasted for around 6 minutes, but the effects will be felt for years to come.

I was coming back to my office from the toilet, shaking the water off my hands when I heard the shrill earthquake early warning alarm sound from my office. I just had time to get back to my desk and get ready for the inevitable shaking to begin. I have lived in Japan for a total of 3 years and am used to earthquakes. Nothing could have prepared me for what was to come next. In all honesty, my memories of the quake actually hitting are hazy at best. I put this down to a massive surge of adrenalin and fear. The room started to rumble and shake. Slowly at first, but then getting faster and more pronounced. Initially the shaking was going up and down but when we began moving round in a circular motion at the same time I knew this time was different. By this point I was down on my knees; I watched and listened as the sound of my colleague’s frightened voices mixed with the noise of things falling off shelves and glass shattering around me.  The shaking grew worse and the desks and cabinets started to slide around. The entire office was now moving like a roller-coaster. I got under my desk and held tightly to my chair. Then the secondary alarm sounded. This sounded more like a school bell or fire alarm. Somebody on the intercom was shouting at everyone to be calm in a voice that was decidedly not calm. At this point I remember thinking that now could very well be the end. My office is on the 13th floor and the strongest, lasting memory I have is waiting for the ground to suddenly fall from underneath my backside as I crouched under my desk. Despite the adrenalin it was a scary thought; I found myself earnestly begging, to whom I do not know, that this not be the end and for the shaking to stop. Eventually it did stop. We all gingerly got up and surveyed the extensive damage. There was a ringing in my ears.

As a JET Programme Coordinator for International Relations and Prefectural Advisor, my main responsibility was to start trying to make contact with my JET colleagues to confirm their safety. As we were doing just this, somebody put the television on. A visibly shaken but outwardly calm presenter announced that a tsunami of over 10 metres would be approaching the coastal areas of Tohoku any minute. The bemused look of horror on the faces of my colleagues as they processed this new information will stay with me for a long time to come. In the panic I was not able to fully grasp what this meant and simply got back to my work contacting JETs. The mobile phone networks were down within 10 minutes and repeated attempts to reach people were met with beeps or an apologetic recorded voice. It was only when the first footage of the tsunami started coming in that we all started to realise the seriousness of the situation. There were scenes of entire towns being engulfed by waves of biblical proportions and cars and houses being casually washed away like they were toys. It was then that we realised we were in this for the long haul. The ensuing days are a blur in my mind now. Mine and my colleagues’ endurance was pushed to the limit. I lived at my office for the first 5 days working long shifts trying to get in touch with our ALTs, dealing with phone calls from worried relatives, coordinating with the Embassy teams as they started arriving to confirm the safety of their citizens, talking to the overseas media and whatever else was necessary. Even though we were sleeping on the floor of the office and washing with wet-wipes, we were all too keenly aware that while tough, how we were living was luxury compared to the thousands of people displaced and living at the mercy of the elements.

After the first week I was able to get back to my apartment to survey the damage and clean up. After I started living at home again, my workload slowly began to return to normal levels and I became increasingly restless constantly sitting at my desk. I began to yearn for the opportunity to get out there and not only see the damage for myself but help in a more direct way. Luckily I had this opportunity. On the 19th I went with my supervisor to one of the worst hit towns, Ishinomaki, to search for a JET that we were unable to make contact with. I was apprehensive about aftershocks and the possibility of another tsunami, but my desire to get out in the field overshadowed any fear I had. We were dropped off by colleagues early Saturday morning. I have never seen anything like it. We trekked around what was left of the town from early morning until evening checking every evacuation shelter on the way, trying to find any word of our missing JET. The sheer scale of the destruction was appalling. Overturned and smashed cars littered the streets everywhere. Boats catapulted from the sea by the tsunami lay incongruously on the roads or protruding from buildings. The main bridge leading to the south part of the city was blocked by a boat and covered in rubble, including a nearly intact house that had been torn from its foundations and hurled onto the bridge. The smell sticks in my mind. Sometimes fairly innocuous; rubble, mud, and wood mixed together, resembling that of a building site. Sometimes it was repulsive, a mixture of mud, raw sewage, rotten fish and meat and decay amongst other things. We did not find word of our missing JET colleague that day. She was confirmed as deceased a number of days later. My thoughts are still with her family during this profoundly difficult time.

To say that this is a terrible situation is a gross understatement. It is estimated that it will take over ten years to restore Miyagi to its former glory. However, the response by those affected, the Japanese population in general and the rest of the world has been profoundly moving, humbling and heartening to say the least. After the quake and tsunami the Japanese Self Defense Force sprang into action and started the important work of search and rescue and road clearing. Search and rescue teams from all over the world started pouring into Miyagi and Tohoku as well as donations of provisions and financial aid. There are countless stories of acts of selfless bravery and generosity that really reminds one of what it is to be a human being. Even now thousands of people across Tohoku are living, taking each day as it comes in makeshift evacuation shelters in school sports halls and other buildings. Gas and electricity is still far away for many and hot water a long forgotten luxury. Despite this, people are remaining positive and making every effort to recover and move on with their lives. It is nothing short of inspiring.

The future of Miyagi prefecture and the Tohoku region may look bleak now. So many people have experienced such profound loss that it is difficult, if not impossible for me to put it into words. My experience, though trying, pales into insignificance compared to what a lot of people are going through. In spite of all this, from what I have seen of the people here’s strength, humanity and resolve, I personally have no doubt whatsoever that Miyagi and Tohoku will recover and be brilliant once more.

This piece was written in April 2011. Since then astounding progress has been made across the Tohoku region. Prefectural governments are and local citizens are working hard, long hours to clear the rubble, bring back gas and electricity, build temporary housing for those who lost their homes  and support those still living in evacuation centres. However, there is still a long way to go. While the world media has long forgotten about us here, I ask you to please keep Miyagi and Tohoku in your hearts and minds.
 
Luke Happle can be contacted in regard to information about donations, relief efforts etc. at this email address

cir2@pref.miyagi.jp

International Affairs Division, Miyagi Prefectural Government

etails about the JET Prtogramme can be seen here

Copyright (c) Japan Local Goverment Centre 2011. All rights reserved.